Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Wooden Palisade 2

Last time I made straight sections of palisade, well the magazine contains more than that.
So to come are:
  • Corner sections 
  • The gate-section
Meaning a square fort can be fully assembled.


Cut out a circle from a piece of card using a pair-of-compasses and a knife, the radius should have be the same as the width of a wall section 2''/5cm.

Cut the circle into four sections.

Cut out a piece of polystyrene 1''/2.5cm wide and tall, and leaves the same gap between the corner and the start of the polystyrene, then glue to card base.

Cut out spikes 2''/5cm tall and shorter ones at 1.5''/3cm tall (same as was done for the wall sections) and glue to polystyrene and base.

Glue down a triangle of card then scored balsa wood in the corner, or two layers of matchsticks.

Press and glue halved cocktail sticks into the polystyrene.


Cut out a 12''/30cm by 2''/5cm of card as a base

Cut out two pieces of polystyrene, 1''/2cm by 1''/2cm by 1.5''/3.5cm , and trim them in half to create the effect of angular packed earth.

Glue to either side of the base.

Glue 2''/5cm spiked skewers and 1.25''/3cm flat-ended skewers behind the polystyrene

The door

Cut out a piece of thin card 1.75''/4.5cm by 1.75''/4.5cm. Then into halves.

Cut out spiked skewers approximately 2.5''/6cm long and glue to front of the card

Cut out four square balsa wood posts 2.75''/7cm tall and 0.5''/1cm wide (two for each side)

Cut out four pieces of paper 1.5''/4cm by 0.5cm. Glue to top and bottom of each door to make hinges.

Glue 1.75''/4.5cm flat-ended skewers to the back of the cards.
Glue the posts onto the ends of the paper hinges.
Remember not to cover all of the paper else the door won't open.
Leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the bottom of the posts.

Trim the polystyrene if needed so both posts and the doors will fit.

Glue down card then scored balsa wood (or matchsticks) for floorboards around the spiked fence-and through the gap.
Then glue in the posts. If they don't stand sturdily glue skewers across the top to attach both posts.

The completed fort:

I think that my one turned out pretty well, at least better than I imagined.
Although the floorboards only support 80% of an inch base, so next time I would increase the width of the base.
Also I would round off the polystyrene to create a more realistic effect. 

Anyway I hoped you learnt something there. It still needs to be undercoated and painted, like before, I'll wing it :)

Until then


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